![]() ![]() I got some good wood glue and thinned it out with water. I thought at first the stock's crack was only on one side, but was on both. But if on one side maybe this will help get the crack opened up a little to let the glue run into it. ![]() I would try this even if the crack is only on one side just to make sure it wasn't clear through. You can do this one handed if you have some wooden dowels inserted into holes on your bench to slide the stock into and then using one hand pry the stock apart. After steaming and ironing 95+% of the dents out and sanding the hairs off caused by ironing I slightly pried the cracks apart. Dented and cracked on both sides of the wrist through the receiver section. I have been a M1 Garand collector for over 20 years and only know enough to know that what I don't know is a whole lot more than what I do know.A friend in OK sent me his old walnut finger groove 10/22 stock that had fallen off the wall hooks. They can be found, but don't expect them to go for pocket change. Check out the Garand Collectors website and start your research for authentic, spec parts. Whatever the cause, it is unsafe to try to repair. There could be any number of causes for a cracked receiver. Over pressure improperly loaded hand loaded ammunition has also been responsible for cracked receivers. Those poorly redone demilled parts still show up from time to time. Since the were "rebuilt" from original receivers, they have real serial numbers issued by the government to the contract manufacturers. the receiver you have that is cracked could be one of those demilled, rewelded scrap put togethers. Many, many were disasters waiting to happen while firing due to lack of surface hardening, poor welds, misaligned parts, etc. Dishonest welders and fast buck artists literally bought the torched/cut receivers, aligned them poorly and rewelded and reparkerized them to look good. When M1 Garands became scarce due to government demil destruction by cutting receivers with a torch or with a cutting machine, the demilled parts were sold on the scrap metal market. Reputable vendors sell only authentic original government receivers and a few actually have new receivers manufactured to original specification using original forged receivers that are then machined to the proper specs so all parts function properly. Get a new or MPI (magnetic particle inspected) or untrasound checked and certified good, within specs receiver w/o cracks or rewelds and rebuild the M1 with parts from a known reliable, honest vendor. This is not a motor bike/vehicle frame post collision repair. There is a lot more to repairing a receiver to original specifications and quality than simply welding it. Simply finding someone recommended to you as a good TIG welder is not enough. It was a complicated, techinical procedure that until finally worked out, improper heat treating was responsible for hundreds of rejects from govenment contracted manufacturers. The steel used in the manufacturing of the M1 was specifically surface hardened to a very specific Rockwell hardness standard at a very specific surface depth. WWII or post war contract receiver NO it is not wise to try to repair. I am open to about anything at this point. I may sell it or trade it to get something I can use or may want. I am new to the garand rifle really and know that they are a little tricky to work on. I guess I am just seeing if anyone has any information for me that I may not have already read. It just hurts my heart to have an extra that is just a hanger. The thing is I have another awesome garand that is fully functioning and in good operating condition. I am guessing I can hang her up and look at her or I can order a 400.00 receiver and shoot her again. So after weighing his options he brought it to me and said he did not want to mess with it and to do what I wish with it. I instructed him that this would be a hard sale and that it basically renders this Ole beaut all but inoperable. I have a m1 garand that was gifted to me due to the fact that the Ole battle rifle has a hairline Crack on each side of the receiver heel on each side of the Springfield roll mark and serial number. ![]()
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